5 treats, Zero Guilt

Here, if the cheese is strong, it’s because the animals are stronger. Every summer, Yvane and Franck Pissart leave their farm in Montroc, above Argentière, with their herd of around fifty animals (and their two children) to climb to the Balme alpine pastures at 2,000 metres. With views over the jagged peaks of the massif, lush grasses, and tiny alpine flowers — that’s what you’ll taste in their beautifully aged tommes, truly melt-in-the-mouth.

A similar summer migration awaits the 400 ewes of Géraldine and Eddy Battendier of GAEC des Croests Mastins in Les Houches, accompanied on their transhumance by their loyal dog, Rocket. No enclosed pastures here — just the gentle freedom one savours in their fresh or ash-coated goat’s cheeses.

Direct sales

at the Montroc farm in Argentière Tue, Fri, Sat (5:30-7:30 pm)

at the Croests Mastins cheese shop in Les Houches, Mon-Sat (4:30-6:30 pm)

“Monday, potatoes. Tuesday, potatoes. Wednesday, potatoes again… And Sunday, the Lord’s Day: steamed potatoes.” Wrong! A farçon — or farcement. This traditional mountain dish once simmered for hours in a cast-iron mould over the hearth while the family was at Mass. Potatoes (you’ve got the idea), bacon, eggs, cream, butter, and dried fruits — raisins, figs, prunes… Simple, hearty, and utterly comforting.

Everyone has their own recipe, and each swears theirs is the true one. Today, a few local restaurants — including La Maison Carrier and Le Rond Point — and some caterers in the valley still prepare it. Not to be missed. And if you need a digestif afterwards — keep reading (and drinking)!

2017, in Les Houches. Within the old still of a wooden chalet at the foot of Mont Blanc, three slightly eccentric Londoners played at being alpine druids. Since then, Altitude Gin and its distillery have grown considerably — now open for guided tours and tastings.

The recipe for their “magic potion” remains the same: an infusion of local plants and berries (juniper, blueberries, elderflowers, pine needles) blended with crystal-clear alpine water. And what gives Altitude Gin even more attitude is its commitment to planet-friendly production. The brand donates to CREA Mont-Blanc and offers a recyclable bag-in-box refill system for local bars — helping to cut back on carbon emissions.

It’s good. Very good. And soon — certified organic.

59 Avenue Michel Croz, Chamonix

06 10 86 23 97

Growing saffron flowers in the mountains might sound as improbable as climbing peaks in the deserts of the Middle East… and yet. Since 2013, Noé Tollin has been cultivating this “red gold” in Les Houches, at over 1,000 metres above sea level. From December to April, everything lies dormant under snow. From May to September, silence reigns — while the crop grows. Then, at the start of autumn, the harvest takes place in a single day: thousands of stems are gathered, and the three scarlet stigmas from each bloom are carefully plucked by hand with tweezers. A work of patience and precision — part botanist, part goldsmith.

With around 100 grams harvested per year, Noé Tollin infuses his homemade jams and syrups with the delicate brilliance of mountain saffron — fruit and craftsmanship, both his own.

Indulgent — and irresistibly so. The 4810 by Maison Fattier is a small masterpiece of chocolate, with a smooth praline heart of Piedmont hazelnuts and a delicately crisp base. Each bite is a delight — rich, melting, and elegant — its form echoing the world-famous silhouette of Mont Blanc, the Aiguille du Midi, and the Bossons Glacier. An essential treat during your stay, unmissable in the displays at Chalet 4810 and Les Petits Gourmands. Maison Fattier’s two pâtisserie tea rooms are true peaks of pleasure. The hardest part? Choosing what to taste — and then having to leave.

Chalet 4810 - 191, rue Joseph-Vallot - Chamonix (open 7:30 am - 7:30 pm)

Aux Petits Gourmands - 168, rue Docteur Paccard - Chamonix (open 7:30 am - 7:30 pm)