Book Bucket List at the Summit

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For mountaineers turned authors, writing about the mountains is more than just writing about a landscape. Here are five books to prove it, ranging from stories by climbing poets to forward-thinking texts.

First on the rope, Roger Frison-Roche (1941)

This cult novel draws on the author and explorer's personal experiences and stories of the mountaineers he grew up with. A young Chamonix native in search of heights, Pierre's life should have been nothing but ascents. But the mountain takes his father from him, and then comes vertigo and freefall. Thanks to his friends, between doubts and pushing himself to the limit, he manages to become the "first on the rope" of his own life once again. A great coming-of-age story.

Starlight and Storm, Gaston Rébuffat (1954)

A timeless pillar of mountain literature, with Starlight and Storm, the poet-guide takes us on a journey to the greatest north faces of the Alps (including the Drus). On paper, it's already a thrilling experience. But beyond the feats of skill, Rébuffat's signature lies in his reflections on the majesty of nature and a prose as pure as the fresh air of the summits he climbed.

Conquistadors of the Useless, Lionel Terray (1961)

More than just the autobiography of the legendary mountaineer—which would already be quite something considering the expeditions he led—this book is a philosophy of the mountains that defies the social conventions of its time. "What's the point of all this! Is there even a 100-franc note at the summit?" “To his father’s recurring question about what he’s looking for up there, Lionel Terray contrasts the sheer joy of the game, the praise of the pointless. A truly beautiful text about raw passion.”

Breaking the Ice Ceiling, Marion Poitevin (2025)

The first woman (and still the only one to this day) in the Chamonix High Mountain Military Group, now a guide, rescuer, and president of the Lead the Climb association for women’s leadership in mountaineering… In Breaking the Ice Ceiling, Marion Poitevin addresses performance, sexism, anger, and perseverance… And recounts her extraordinary journey only to pave the way for new adventures.

Samivel, Sophie Cuenot (2025)

A native of Chamonix, Sophie Cuenot was a journalist at Radio France before dedicating herself to writing. She has already published four books, including The Chamonix Novel, recently reissued, and her latest, Samivel. Behind this pseudonym hides Paul Gayet-Tancrède, a multifaceted artist (draftsman, watercolorist, writer, photographer) and a pioneer of alpine ecology, who, in his work, celebrated the mountains to campaign for their protection. This richly illustrated biography tells the story of a free, committed, and visionary man. A luminous read and a welcome source of inspiration.

To find these books and many other works about the mountains:

Paulsen Publishing - Espace Guérin - 30, avenue du Mont Blanc - Chamonix-Mont-Blanc

Sauvage Bookstore - 178, avenue Michel Croz - Chamonix-Mont-Blanc